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Posts tagged ‘flour cookbook’

not-so-pretty in pink

29 May 2012

dj

there’s an old farm field, a mile or so south of the town where we live. when it rains, large pools of water form in the middle of it. a frequent condition in nearly-always-drenched western Washington. i never thought there was anything extraordinary about that former pumpkin patch—until one dark night in November.

my sister, nieces and i were headed home from hospice, after a visit with my mom. along the stretch of highway between the hospital and the house, we drove with heavy hearts, in silence. suddenly, a great blue heron arose from the field, crossed in front of my windshield—lanky legs dangling in my line of vision—and headed west toward the sound. the next day, my mom passed away.

mom would have found it ironic that i believe she’s been channeled by a stunningly bright blue heron. blue was her least favorite color, an aversion that seemed totally irrational to me: i just don’t like it, she’d say emphatically. yeah, i don’t like beets, but there’s a darn good reason for that; they’re completely disgusting. it took me about 10 years to coerce her into even considering wearing blue jeans. but once she warmed up to the idea—and later in life—she rarely went out in anything else on her bottom half.

now, pink. pink was a color my mom could get behind. she gravitated toward all shades of pink equally. so for birthdays and holidays, i kept an eye out for pink gifts: handbags, hats, tank tops, fleece jackets, even candy (who could resist Godiva dark chocolate filled with raspberries??). whatever the season, whatever the reason, pink was in. to celebrate mom this year, i set out to make pink cupcakes loosely based on a revered childhood snack: Hostess Sno Balls. it seemed like a fitting tribute to my mom and to a now-struggling company whose treats had been the shining stars in my  Twiggy lunchbox.

lesson learned: my skill sets lay in something less demanding than cupcake creation, like  making pies. but i’m sharing the recipe here, for those of you who can hold on to a pastry bag and aren’t challenged by Pantone color-matching frosting. the cupcakes tasted great, but the all-natural food coloring i incorporated lost its rosy glow.

every time i drive by the old farm field, i watch for my blue heron. sometimes i see her there. like i did this mother’s day. i break into a smile and wave. and i get a little teary-eyed. but i was always kind of a sap, right, ma?

Not-So-Pretty in Pink Cupcakes
inspired by a Back in the Day Bakery recipe
a combination of chocolate cupcake and coconut frosting recipes from Joanne Chang’s flour cookbook (as i’ve said previously, an absolutely fabulous, gotta-have volume)
makes 12 moist dark chocolatey cupcakes

INGREDIENTS

for the cupcakes
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1/4 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1/3 cup water
1/2 cup whole organic milk
1 egg
1 egg yolk (save the egg white)
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup organic all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

for the frosting
3/4 cups sugar
3 eggs whites (use the egg white saved from the batter recipe)
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter, at room temperature, cut into 2-inch chunks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup coconut milk

for the topping
2 cups sweetened shredded coconut

DIRECTIONS

  1. place paper cupcake liners in a standard 12-cup muffin tin.
  2. in a medium-size heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate and the cocoa powder.
  3. in a small saucepan, combine the sugar, butter and water.
  4. over medium-high heat, whisk until the butter is melted and sugar dissolved, around 3 to 4 minutes.
  5. pour the hot butter mixture over the chocolate-cocoa, and whisk until the chocolate is completely melted, and the mixture is homogenous.
  6. then whisk the milk, egg, egg yolk and vanilla into the chocolate mixture, until thoroughly combined.
  7. in a small bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
  8. dump the flour mixture on top of the chocolate mixture, and whisk until the dry ingredients are completely incorporated into the chocolate mixture.
  9. let the batter sit at room temperature for at least an hour. or transfer to an airtight container, and store in the frig for up to three days.
  10. preheat the oven to 350F.
  11. spoon the batter into the prepared cups, dividing the batter evenly.
  12. bake on center rack of oven for 20 to 30 minutes, until the tops spring back.
  13. cool completely on a wire rack.
  14. to make the frosting, in a small heatproof bowl, whisk the sugar and egg whites to form a thick slurry.
  15. place the bowl over simmering water (should not touch the water) in a saucepan and heat, whisking occasionally, until the mixture is hot to the touch, around 6 to 8 minutes.
  16. remove the bowl from the heat, and scrape the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whip attachment.
  17. whip  on medium-high speed for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture becomes a light, white meringue, cool to the touch. (i whipped until soft peaks just began to form, which seemed to work.)
  18. on low speed, add the chunks of butter, a few at a time.
  19. increase the speed to medium, and mix for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the butter is completely incorporated; the mixture should look smooth and glossy. at first it looks as if it’s curdling, but don’t panic. just keep going until it smooths out.
  20. add the vanilla, salt and coconut milk, and whip until the coconut milk is completely incorporated, and the frosting is smooth. you may need to scrape the bottom of the bowl in the process.
  21. remove the cupcakes from the muffin tin.
  22. hollow the center with an apple corer, going down a little shy of 1 inch.
  23. fit a pastry bag with a round tip, fill the bag, then pipe the frosting into the center of the cupcakes.
  24. if you’re brave and have the appropriate kind of food coloring, add to the remaining frosting until you’ve achieved the appropriate shade of pink.
  25. for prettier cupcakes, fit the pasty bag with a star tip, refill with the pink frosting, and decorate the cakes.
  26. alternatively, spread the frosting on the cupcakes with an icing spatula. (i employed this method as it made the cupcakes look more like Sno Balls.)
  27. place the shredded coconut in a small bowl.
  28. gently roll the frosted cupcakes in the shredded coconut.

little bird love letter

20 November 2011

dj

after a year, i still can’t believe my mom is gone. it just feels like she’s back in New England, and we’ll be seeing each other again soon.

i spent this weekend doing those things we enjoyed together. with Tootie in tow, we began our journey at a local nursery, progressed to mom’s favorite shopping mall and stores, grabbed a bite of Asian fusion. we bought the ingredients to make her favorite meals: my top-secret chile recipe, lamb rib chops with roasted herb fingerlings and bacon-laden brussel sprouts, perfect northwest mac and cheese. i cooked all of it, and  we raised our glasses to toast her.

the truth is, in the year since mom’s passing, there have been more downs than ups (reminds me of the Upson Downs schtick in Auntie Mame, which we watched countless times). sometimes i call her to let her  know i’m on the way home. sometimes i make way too much food. sometimes i just stand in her room, breathing in the essence that lingers in the air. always, i set a place for her at the table.

i’ve found solace and joy in shaping pie dough and in tweaking new baked-goods’ recipes. i remember how mom’s face would light up with an adorable expression when she tasted something she thought was mmmmm (translation: yummy). the very last thing i baked for mom elicited that kind of enthusiasm: a cinnamon roll based on a brioche recipe from Joanne Chang, Flour Bakery + Cafe.

mom and i had seen Boston-based Chef Chang on an episode of Food Network‘s Throwdown (her sticky buns whooped Bobby Flay’s, btw). mom was thrilled that Chang’s bakery was in Bean Town. i was thrilled with the anticipation of  exploring an amazing sticky bun recipe. i immediately placed an order for Chang’s soon-to-be printed cookbook. (if you’re looking for a well-written, conversational baking book, with delicious fare, flour is definitely it. would highly recommend as a must-have.)

as part of my homage to mom (who at 80-plus still remembered her high school French), you’ll find the recipe for little bird cinnamon rolls here.

today, might head down to Pike Place Market, grab some chai at Starbuck’s original storefront, and pick up a rhubarb or white chocolate and cherry piroshky. wherever i go, i’ll be missing you, little bird.

little bird cinnamon rolls
makes 8 healthy-size rolls 

INGREDIENTS 

for the dough (based on Joanne Chang’s basic brioche)
2 1/4 cups organic all-purpose flour
2 1/4 cups bread flour
3 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup cold water
5 eggs
1 cup plus 6 tablespoons euro butter, at room temperature, cut into 12 pieces

for the filling
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
8 tablespoons cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
pinch of salt
2 1/2 tablespoons melted butter
1/2 tablespoon melted butter
1/3 cup dried currants (optional)

for the frosting
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
4 tablespoons honey (modify this based on your desired sweetness level)
1 teaspoon vanilla paste (or vanilla extract)

DIRECTIONS

  1. butter a large bowl; set aside.
  2. in the bowl of a stand mixer, add the all-purpose flour, bread flour, yeast, sugar, salt, water and eggs.
  3. using the dough hook, beat the ingredients on low speed, until they come together, around 5 minutes. (scrape down the sides of the bowl, as needed.)
  4. after the dough has come together, continue to beat for another 4 minutes; the dough will be dry/stiff.
  5. on low speed, add the butter one piece at a time; make sure the butter has been incorporated  into the dough, before you add another piece.
  6. once all the butter has been added, beat on low for 10 minutes, until all the butter has become one with the dough.
  7. after the butter is thoroughly incorporated, beat on medium speed for another 15 minutes, until the dough is soft and shiny. this takes a while, so be patient and vigilant; it will happen.
  8. with the dough in its now-smooth and shiny state, beat on medium-high for 1 minute, until the dough, when tested, stretches and can give a little.
  9. gather up the dough and place in the large bowl.
  10. cover with plastic wrap (so it’s touching the surface of the dough).
  11. place in the fridge for 6 hours or overnight to proof. (i do the latter, then get up in the morning and move to the next step, so we have fresh rolls for breakfast.)
  12. butter a 9 x 13-inch baking dish; set aside.
  13. in a medium bowl, mix the dark brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon, cloves, salt and 2 1/2 tablespoons butter, until it becomes a sort of paste; set aside.
  14. on a floured work surface, roll out the dough into a 12 x 16-inch rectangle, 1/4-inch thick.
  15. with a brush (i use silicon), spread the 1/2 tablespoon butter over the surface of the dough.
  16. evenly spread the filling paste over the entire surface of the dough, pressing down gently with your hand.
  17. sprinkle on the currants, if using, then press in gently.
  18. beginning with the short side of the dough, roll tightly to create a spiral with the filling.
  19. pinch very gently to seal the log.
  20. even the ends of the dough log, by trimming with a bench scraper.
  21. cut log into 8 even pieces, around 1 1/2 inches wide.
  22. evenly space the rolls in the baking dish, and cover with plastic wrap.
  23. let the dough rise in a warm place for around 2 hours or until they’re touching and puffy.
  24. preheat oven to 350F.
  25. bake the rolls on the middle rack until golden brown (this takes only 22 minutes in my oven), around 30 minutes.
  26. while the rolls are baking, prepare the frosting.
  27. with a hand mixer fitted with a beater attachment, mix the cream cheese until it’s fluffy.
  28. add the honey and vanilla paste, and continue to beat until smooth and completely incorporated; set aside.
  29. let the rolls cool in the baking dish for 20 minutes (so the frosting doesn’t completely melt, when you spread it on).
  30. spread the frosting over the tops of the rolls.

serve with a good cup of coffee (or tea, of course). crank up the Ink Spots Java Jive, and kick back. coming at you, ma, Air Mail Special. love you always.